This whipper is horrifying. While climbing the fourth pitch of Warriors of the Wasteland (5.12, 200 meters) in Squamish, BC this was Casey Dubois’s first redpoint attempt of the 30-meter pitch, a 5.12-
“Casey had climbed through most of the hard climbing with one final hard move before the sinker 5.11 finger-crack finale,” the filmer, Kyle Smith, wrote to Climbing. “Unfortunately he fell on that final hard move and ripped a 0.1 x4 BD at his ankles. We were expecting a small fall, but the cam failed and the carabiner on the cam below unclipped itself causing Casey to fall over slightly half the pitch.”
Dubois helmet sported multiple cracks from the impact. “He was a little shaken of course, but was totally okay,” Smith said.
When asked if Smith knew how that second carabiner unclipped itself. “We couldn’t figure [it] out … but it did. It just was one of those perfect storms,” he said. Indeed, strange things happen when gear holds for an instant before ripping: the rope stretches and stretches, ready to arrest the fall, but failing gear can reintroduce a meaningful amount of new slack into the system. We’ve seen this “new” rope wrap itself around feet, arms, and even necks during massive gear rippers, and, if wrapped around a carabiner, it will easily unclip.
The carabiner rotated when the tension went out of the rope, causing it to unclip itself from the cam as Dubois dropped past.
But the rope and carabiner didn’t part ways here—it was the cam that was left on its own. Locking carabiners are an obvious preventative solution, and certainly not a new concept for headpointing dangerous routes, but they are cumbersome and impractical to have on each cam. Doubling up on protection can limit this type of unclipping. More cams in the system means less new rope is introduced when once piece fails. Finally, adding a rubber band to the sling of your cam will ensure proper orientation in the event of a fall. Had the carabiner not had the opportunity to rotate, it may not have unclipped itself at all.
🎞climbing.com
🎥Kyle Smith
#whippers #RockClimbingWhippers
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I would suspect a cross-clipped carabiner on the second piece, but it looks plumb so it shouldn’t have mattered, plus this guy is trying to redpoint a 5.12… he’s therefore quite experienced and would know about that error. I think putting o-rings on the rope end of his quickdraws might have helped with orientation (I know rubberbands were mention in the description, but they look trashy and often aren’t as durable).
Got to properly size o-ring, but basically put the o-ring on the biner, twist once, put the dogbone on and through the o-ring loop, twist once more and finally clip it into the biner and orientate everything. It should be quite tight.
The ironic thing is…that terrified scream of absolute unadulterated FEAR AND REGRET is exactly the climber’s TRUE SELF. That’s how he TRULY FEELS. Yet he’ll go through all this to try to prove that he’s not truly afraid as that sound of desperation he made proved that he is. Leave it alone buddy. Jesus saved you. Acknowledge Him.
I can't stop😆😆😆😆😆🤣🤣
That whole so-called sport is so boring. 😂
I'll never understand climbing rocks for fun, but I do respect it as a sport for these reasons..
he kind of looks like guy martin
Ahhiiiiiiiyyyyyiiiiiiii
Gravity sucks, righty tightly, lefty loosey
This sport is right up there with grenade juggling.
Thank friend for landing on me😢
Climbing like they wanna go to heaven already😂
The person at the bottom was like, you could’ve fallen anywhere, yet here you are choosing to fall on me.
Stawimus Chief ?
Even there you can hear morins w lous mufflers. Cnuts
This isn't sport, this is suicidal tendency
It didn’t unclip, the cam blew out due to improper placement or the rock broke, dude took a ride
Climbing is, by far, the goddamn DUMBEST way to kill yourself.
The blame blame goes to the gorillas 😁
😅
I too had a very similar near death experience, I rolled off the couch drunk one night, it was horrible.
I think he made the mistake of using the doohickey instead of the thingamajig, probably thought it was as good as a thingamabob, but not when the whatchamacallit is in play.
I used to climb . In my 20’s and 30’s . Not into risky stuff now.
I’ve fallen down the stairs before, so I know what this feels like 💃
I finally understand why these guys wear helmets.