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About the Author: Kai Lenny

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  1. This honestly doesn't seem that bad. I've never surfed with SI cans, but damn does it make a difference. That would normally kill someone, but the underwater time was less than I've had in smaller swells. I imagine the pummel is brutal though. I've taken perforated eardrums diving for depth to escape pummel. This, you're getting forced to come up for air but would be getting beaten the fuck up the whole way.

    Super cool tech for life saving, but it must've felt awful diving down for the set, knowing you can't get anywhere close enough to escape the hit. Then of course when you get hit, a big deep breath suddenly means little.

    I could surf here with the cans comfortably, but I'd probably die without. Whether or not my head slaps the water at highway speeds on the way down the face is a whole other factor.

  2. Waooooo scary that prof you have to train not for surf those type of waves but to survive a wipe out in white waters like that.that. for real athletes like kai

  3. When I was about age 14 or so, I was in the ocean jumping the swells, it's really fun. But I didn't know what I know now, and a big wave crashed down on me and rolled me along the bottom all the way to shore! I've always been a good swimmer and love the water, but that day, I was scraped and tumbled over the sand, and whatever was in it, all the way to shore. Yes, it hurt, and I came out sputtering and scraped up! But didn't deter me from loving the water, but I certainly have a healthy respect for those big waves, and the ocean in general. Waves usually come in sets and about every 14th wave, there is a bigger one on its way.
    But when I see these guys surfing and a wave crashing on top of them, it is very scary. Those waves have literally TONS of water in them. When you consider that 1 cubic foot of water weighs over 62.5 pounds, and one US gallon of water weighs over 8 pounds, one would think that a wave crashing down on them can weigh tons! I'd hate to fight that!
    i guess their surfboard attached to them helps bring them to surface, but it's still scary. There are life-jackets that will inflate if you get caught in a snow avalanche, and I would suppose those would be good for surfers, IF you could get them to wear one.

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